Sound and Fury(ious Repairs and Overhauls)

BACK FROM THE DEAD A****LES!!!

I'm just kidding, I love you guys! But seriously, I'm FINALLY UPDATING THE BLOG WITH NEW INFO.

Happy belated May the 4th!

It's been too long since my last blog post. But like many, I'm never done working on my armor, and never done fiddling around with things, especially with people enabling me.

Armor Repair

Anovos armor is dainty in that it is thin in many places and likes to crack. Higher CRL approval requires some edge returns on torso armor to give the appearance of thick armor; lamentably, this often leads to cracking, which is especially true with the thin Anovos pulls.

As I mentioned in a previous blog, I reinforced the kidney plate with epoxy and fiberglass mesh to keep it from cracking, but the return edges just want to crack anyhow, especially near the ridge portion that runs up the back. Because the previous work prohibited me from repairing it on the inside of the edge, I had to work on the outside instead.

Although not as desirable of a repair, after sanding and polishing it's not terribly noticeable, especially when assembled next to the back plate.

Also thin are the ammo belt pieces for the main belt and thigh ammo pack.I reinforced these with thin, long scraps of ABS, CA glue, and much clamping. For the main ammo belt, I'll need to go back later and fill in some small cracks before they grow larger.

For the thing ammo pack, it had been cracked near the rivet hole during a photo shoot.I had to grind out the rack, fill with ABS paste, sand and polish; I also reinforced from behind with ABS strips and CA glue.

During the course of may troops the right cheek of my bucket developed a bend line. So I sanded it lightly, added some ABS paste, shaped, smoothed and polished. The ABS paste left some very tiny bubbles that I may fill later.

I had some tabs on the edge return of the butt plate that kept the armor from popping out too much compared to the kidney plate. Lamentably, this only caused the edge return to crack a lot, even with reinforcement. Thankfully, there was still plenty of inside edge return to apply a copious amount of Scrap ABS and ABS paste. I had to thoroughly paste the top as well due the edge return becoming uneven after cracking and repairs, to smooth the surface back out.

And... I got another crack in my chest plate, just past where I did all the reinforcement, of course. If what I did for the kidney plate pans out, I might due that to the chest plate as well, especially with a sanding block to help smooth and mold. Some edges of the chest plate have become uneven during past repairs, so I might just kill two birds with one stone, and thicken up that edge return for the entire edge.

But that's a topic for another blog post.

Fans/ Bucket

My bucket was a mess. I overbuilt it and it was hard to don and take off because the opening was narrower due to the oversized bracket. For reference:

I decided to move away from a bracketed design and instead use tape and hook & loop straps to secure fans and wiring directly to the inside of the bucket. Some of this had already been added, so there was plenty of fuzzy loop tape at strategic spots in the bucket. Hearing assist leads to the mics are held in place with copper tape, although it's admittedly not as resilient against EM noise from the wireless mic - but more on that in a moment.

I also (finally) replaced the wonky Anovos helmet harness and went with pads. Because my head is long, the top of my head needs to rest directly against the top of my bucket for me to see correctly through the eyes. however, placing pads front, back, and to the sides offers a lot of stability without compromising stability.

(Later I removed the forehead pad since it was causing my forehead some pain during my second May 4th troop. I'll need to troop without it, but so far the bucket still seems pretty stable and more comfortable without it.)

I'm also messing around with alternative fan methods. like using micro-fans instead of big blowers. Two micro-fans don't move as much air as a big blower, but they kept my bucket cool enough in the warm WonderCon main hall and made so little noise that I didn't need to use my hearing assist at all.

Even during 89 degree heat that I was in on May 4th, the mini fans did pretty well, but the analog speed controller I'm trying out is somewhat wasted upon them since they don't blow much air except at max speed. I'll be adding modular disconnects between the fans and controller so I can swap with the big blower fans and experiment between speed, noise, and cooling. Without the bracket, I can swap fans whenever I like.

As for the aforementioned wireless mic, I actually don't use it too often. The main reason, as I discovered at Comic-Con last year, is because in large groups it's possible that one's mic will pair with another's receiver, or vice versa. Nothing irritates me more than another person's voice cracking wise form my chestplate. Running a corded mic into my chest plate is the only way to guaranty that the voice coming out of my amp is MY OWN. Plus I need to run the cable from the sound glove anyhow, so it's a necessary evil.

Speaking of which...

TK-Talkie Sound Glove+ Update

Back in December of last year I started playing with TK Talkie firmware v3.15, a beta firmware that supported... a sound glove. Of course, the case (which I received from TK-Talkie) wasn't designed to support a sound glove, so I improvised by adding an RJ45 female jack to the case as a dongle, after wiring all the necessary pins on the Teensy board.

The sound glove itself is just a series of buttons attached to the hand, underneath the normal glove, using elastic straps. For my glove, I used four microswitch buttons and Cat5 cable, with each pair soldered to a button. Of course it connects to the TK-Talkie with an RJ45 male end.

I might change this design later to go with the TK-Talkie fashion of connecting sound gloves, which is 4-conductor 3.5mm jacks. v4 supports up to 6 buttons total, so typically 3 per glove (3 + ground = 4 conductors).

Initially, I had some issues with the buttons breaking off the wires, so I CA glued them onto scrap ABS backings, which I then sewed onto my elastic finger loops, for extra reinforcement.

My setup is slightly different, but here's Mr. TK-Talkie with his own sound glove for reference. I keep my buttons on my first knuckle on my left hand, whereas he puts them right on the fingertips of his right hand. It's just a matter of personal preference.

 

v3.15 was a beta version and worked well enough for the Hollywood Christmas Parade and our troop for an Anaheim Ducks game, but couldn't be configured with the app being a beta implementation (more of a proof-of-concept). Sound files had to be specifically named in a specific folder to work, so it was possible to change sounds, but couldn't be controlled per profile.

v4.00 on the other hand, paired with the v2 assistant app, adds those features and more. Sounds can be swapped on the fly. A button can be set to use the PTT/ Voice Activation/ Sleep function, used for two sounds, or used to adjust levels for various sounds on the box, like effects, voice, loops, etc. You can read more on TK-Talkie v4 here.

I was able to play with the v4 firmware and v2 app on May 4th, during troops at a children's play center and a wedding. It was endlessly fun to play the Imperial March on a whim, to tell people to "Move along, move along," or to inspect a wedding gift and verify that "These aren't the droids we're looking for."

There are endless possibilities, especially when one considers multiple profiles you can create on the TK-Talkie and then swap on a whim with the app. Look out San Diego Comic-Con! So even a basic TK can have some fun with the sound glove, on top of the other functions that the TK-Talkie supports and adds with v4 firmware - which I'll probably discuss at length in the next blog post.

Until next time, carry on troopers!

NOW SELLING - TKSnake's 5V Systems

It's been awhile since my last update.

The armor is still holding up, although I had to reinforce the butt plate and kidney plate with epoxy and fiberglass mesh, much like I did with the chest plate. I like to keep a bigger return edge on these pieces to make the armor look thicker, but the price for that is a higher chance of cracking. So the reinforcement was necessary to ensure that the armor would last for many years.

A while back I discovered how to lessen or eliminate EM noise in my USB-power Hearing Assist by using a DSL filter, which I published in a blog. Now, I don't mind sharing my info, but a later discovered that it was being used in a commercial venture, without even any acknowledgement.

Edit: For information about my offerings, please visit my Sales page!
(https://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/p/tksnakes-5v-systems.html)

Ordering

If you like what you see here, send an email to TK76235 (at) gmail (dot) com (I've broken the email address here to prevent spam bots from reading it). From there we can correspond and I can send you PayPal instructions to start your order.

My pal Brent at TK Talkie is also offering his system for sale if you aren't technically inclined to build your own. If you're interested in purchasing, tell him I sent you :)

So that's what I've been up to lately. I've already started building these for people in the Southern California Garrison, so now I'm offering my services to my first brotherhood, my fellow Anovos armor builders. If things go well I might start competing directly on whitearmor.net.

As an aside, TK Boots is sadly going out of business, so what they have in stock is up for grabs. If you like their boots, hit them up while you can.

Until next time...

Testing the Torso and Truncating my Trunk

I finished strapping up the torso by adding the chest and back plates. I don't have any pictures of the straps, but it's basically straight out of the ANOVOS instructions for these sections - four of the longer H&L straps, two per piece, to connect the chest to the ab plate and the back to the kidney plate. Then, connected at the top with the T-shaped shoulder straps. The final look, once donned, is impressive :)

One thing I noticed is that the ab and kidney plate likes to separate near the bottom, due to the slight gut I have. I guess I'll need to work out and wear a girdle in the mean time. It's the only place on my body that's overly fatty.

Additionally, the modified ANOVOS belt seems to be working well enough. The only thing left to do with it is to remove or cover up the upper two Chicago screws to qualify for Stunt Basic or EIB certification for the 501st. I plan to do this with small circular pieces of iron-on canvas patch, after I try adding some washers to the screws to reduce the chances of the holster tearing through the belt.

After the fitting, I finished trimming and gluing the painted ab buttons in place.

There were some places on the armor that had obvious rub, like the back plate into my shoulders and the posterior plate into my inner legs. So I sanded these down with the Dremel sanding drum to eliminate and taper inner edges.

I also noticed, as I did on my friend's armor during the armor party, that the posterior plate likes to stick out. To combat this, I added to two tabs on the inside of the piece, on the edge returns, so that the plate would hook behind the kidney plate when strapped into place.

I'd honestly be about done at this point, but after fitting the thighs some more, it occurred to me that, although I have the thighs properly trimmed for length, I don't have them trimmed for shape. However, more importantly, they don't come up as far as I need them to (when I'm standing). They're too tight, especially near the top where almost no material was trimmed (save the front edge returns). Therefore, I'll have to accept the fact that I need to shim them. I've already started this process, but will make another blog post dedicated entirely to the process. Until then...

Time to Suck In That Gut

I started strapping the torso armor last night. But before I talk about that, I'll talk about the ab button plates and shoulder straps.

I used to paint miniatures. Admittedly, it's been a while. Here's something I did more than a decade ago, mashed up from parts, with some custom sculpt added, and painted by yours truly.

Painting these round buttons was a little harder than expected due to the rounded edges, but overall, I think I did a good job for freehanding it. Not my best work, but certainly not my worst.

Mind you, the edges will need to come off a bit, especially on the four-button plate, but I'll worry about that when I mount these pieces to the ab plate, which won't be until after the strapping is done.

But let's talk about the shoulder straps next.

The reinforced shoulder straps came out very well, and flush on the bottom.

I measured 4 bars plus the first front bar, just to be on the safe side to have enough in the back. It looked great on fitting, so I marked where the the straps would lay and scuffed the chest plate on those areas, as well as the length of the straps that would cement to the plate. Then I applied cement and clamped.

I unclamped them after two days, and the look great. They're nice and flush on the armor, even with the reinforcements.

NOW let's talk about strapping the ab plates.

I connected the three split rivets on the ab plate to the straps already joined to the kidney plate. Because I ended up covering both the "mistake" holes on the cod plate with AB paste I also connected the groin strap to the cod after I drilled a new hole in the code 20mm from the edge. I forgot to take pictures of this, but the cod looks great, like the mistake never happened. I'm just waiting on some Novus 1-2-3 to bring back the mirror shine after I sanded with 150, 350, and 600 grit sandpaper.

After the split rivets, it was time for the easier stuff, namely putting on the ANOVOS H&L straps. Besides replacing the straps on the left side with the full split rivet treatment as described in the 501st Stunt CRL, I'm currently trying the ANOVOS strapping system until I need something better, as laid out in the ANOVOS instructions.

I came up with a system for putting on the H&L tape. First, I marked the area where the tape would rest using a Sharpie, and scuffed it with 150 grit paper. After sanding, I cleaned the area with rubbing alcohol, which also removed most of the marks, but left just enough to easily help me place the loop end of the H&L tape, cut to just the correct length.

Although I didn't have enough time to get the chest and back plates before needing sleep, I was able to get the lower torso done, as far as the ANOVOS instructions go at any rate.

One thing I realized is that, at least with the test fitting, my pudge causes the bottom of the armor to pop away between the ab and kidney plates. I need to lose some weight, or at least get a shaper until I can shed what little weight I want to lose, which is mostly on my lower abdomen :P I've got a basic shaper, but I ordered a better one due in by the weekend, so we'll see if that helps.

Next on the build comes the chest and back plate. Until then...

Oh, snaps! (And rivets, and ABS paste...)

So I did a bit of work over the past couple of nights. Where do I begin? Probably with the ab plate this time.

The instructions and 501st CRLs call for a snap in the upper right of the ab plate. I followed UKSWrath's blog for more details. Marked the hole, double-checked the measurements, drilled, and tapped the rivet, male end towards the inside (to snap to the strap). Easy.

I needed to start getting the torso plate ready for strapping. Now, if you're using the ANAOVOS instructions, you'd just toss some H&L tape into the left side of the torso and call it a day for that side. But as it is, I (eventually) want to try for Centurion some day (I'll probably have to settle for EIB for the moment due to budgetary concerns, and not wanting to replace the belt just yet). This means that you need three MORE rivets on the ab plate's left side to correspond with the three on the kidney plate. At least ANOVOS gave me PLENTY of spare split rivets :D

Now, where you measure from top to bottom is debatable. UKSWrath does it one way, but since I started out with the kidney plate and am a noob to this, I did it another way. Fortunately, it doesn't matter so long as the rivets or 10cm from the edge of the plate and evenly spaced. This is because the belt will cover up the bottom rivets anyhow. The 501st will accept them in either configuration (if that's your goal).

So instead of having to re-do the kidney plate rivets out of OCD, I kept them as-is and drilled the holes in the ab plate to match. I first lined up the kidney plate, made marks for approximation, verified the measurements on the ab plate with a rule, and drilled.

Now it was time for the groin snaps. Wait... the split rivet is supposed to go in the cod plate, NOT the snaps? ... well f**k.

Yeah, I messed up. Thankfully, snaps are easy to remove with some pliers and "gentle persuasion" (and I have spare #6 snaps from my snap anvil set), but the holes don't exactly disappear with an eraser. And even if I keep one of the existing holes, the other has to go bye-bye. I'll have to make some ABS paste.

Until then, I can get the snaps in the proper piece - the "posterior" (butt) plate. Easy peasy. I drilled a hole about 20mm from the edge of center, then another hole 20mm from that, to match the strap supplied by ANOVOS. Then I set my snaps. I ended up using the snaps that came with my snap anvil as they worked better and match the snaps on the strap.

At least the snaps are in the right place now. In my butt... plate.

Now for the shoulder strap plates. During the armor party, the sqaddies advised us that these straps just love to snap in half lengthwise while trooping, and advised us to reinforce them with scrap ABS on the underside. That being said, I had plenty of scrap ABS, but wanted to match the shape of the straps as much as possible. I tried a heat gun at my office but encountered some "baconing" (where the edges of the pieces start to look like cooked bacon). So I had them take a hot water bath.l

This was challenging for me as a novice builder, but worked out as I was subjecting scrap ABS to the hot water bath as opposed to "real" pieces. What I did was soak the scrap in boiling water for 30-40 seconds, removed the piece, and formed the curve to the room-temperature shoulder straps by hand using my Gorilla Grip gloves. I further used the old rolling pin to remove baconing and any other warp. Each scrap required a few passes. I found it's better to be slow and methodical than to try to rush, lest you ruin the piece and have to start over.

Once the pieces were finished being curved, I used the Dremel sanding drum and sanding block to remove an leftover warping, then glued the pieces under the straps with several clamps and plenty of E-6000.

Later in the evening I went to Home Depot and picked up some industrial acetone for about $8, to start making ABS paste.

Only one of these items is for human consumption.

In a nutshell, here's how you make ABS paste:

Get a glass jar. Add some cut some scrap (make sure there's no clear protective film first; it won't dissolve in the acetone), add acetone until pieces are slightly covered, and then wait a few hours, mixing occasionally with a metal or wood stirrer. Once applied, it dries pretty fast. One can probably work with it in a few hours after you put it on, although I've been waiting 12+ hours due to real life.

But while that was setting up, I decided to work on another part of the ab plate - the snaps for the belt. Using a mix of the instructions from ANOVOS and UKSWrath's guide, I put my marks at an ideal height exactly 170mm from center in each direction (340mm or 34cm total from snap to snap) at a height determined by using a clamped straight edge as a guide line.

I also placed the belt over the plate as I wore it to ensure the snaps would line up.

After triple-checking, I drilled the holes and set the snaps. Now, getting the belt onto and off of these snaps is a pain - it's like the crimped the snaps on the belt stiffer than those on the ab plate straps (which use the same size snaps). I applied a very very slight amount of WD40 to the male snaps on the ab plate to help hasten them, which seemed to help a bit. When donning the armor, you'll probably want to fasten these snaps BEFORE putting the armor on, and unfasten AFTER you take the armor off, to avoid damaging the plate. But yes, the belt fit just fine with the measurements as described above.

Now that the ABS paste was set up, it was time to cover the one hole in the cod piece. I applied paste to the hold and both sides of the plate, using a scrap ABS piece as a scraper to control lumping.

Time to let that set.

Working with the belt, I found it flaccid, to say the least. So I took the advice of other ANOVOS builders (beyond replacing the cloth part of the belt outright) by gluing the ABS plate to the belt, and applying clamps and magnets.

Since the top is the part from which the cloth will hang, I clamped the top foremost, and used magnets elsewhere. That should help stiffen up the belt for now, and allow me to replace the cloth with a Kittle belt in the future. This is because, according to UKSWrath, the stock ANOVOS belt won't fly for Centurion status, even modified (I still need to remove or cover up some of the holster rivets for Stunt cert). But I don't have $40 to spend just on a belt at the moment, so that will have to wait until later. For now, this mod will get the job done for at least Elite certification (once I take care of those rivets).

That's it for now. I was able to get started on sanding the ABS paste on the cod, but because the snap had left a circular score ring, I had to sand down again and apply a second coat (no pictures). Next session I'll probably be finishing up that area and finally getting the strap and split rivet in place. once that's done, I can apply the left and right straps for the ab and kidney plates, and then the butt, chest, and back plates, then the limbs, and then... close to done? We'll see.

Until then...